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I watched highlights of Francis’ visit to Venice. I wish I were wrong, but all I saw were stagey photo-ops, exchanging jokes with prison detainees, kissing babies, and, everywhere, carefully screened crowds obsequiously shoving to shake or kiss his hands. It seemed pretty shameless, Francis clearly in his element, enjoying every star-powered second of his wheelchair parade around and around the central square, gracing adoring fans not with the sign of the cross but with odd little fluttery waves in the air, a la Queen Elizabeth in her coach on the Mall.
The Mass (during which Francis just sat sour-faced and drowsy in a red velvet chair) took place not (as one would expect) in St.Mark;s Basilica, nor even on the steps of St. Mark’s. No, a stage was set up on the other end of St.Mark’s Square, so that all the 10,000 chairs faced away from the legendary Basilica. All the people had their backs turned on one of the holiest places in the world… which was closed for the day so that all could adore The Francis on his makeshift dais instead. The worst was during his reading of the Gospel sermon, his take on the vine and the branches: he issued a stern warning about climate change, and told everyone there to take great care, lest the very place where they stood would sink and be lost forever.